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 Not far form Newfoundland's capital is Petty Harbour. -- Photos by Peter Brewster |
I always wanted a summer in Newfoundland. Two months of meandering at island speed.
But reality says a week, tops, including a fly day at each end, yet still get the distilled flavour of Canada's friendliest province.
Too rushed? Relax, I've done some scouting.
Pick up a rental car at St. John's airport, open the map and get out of town. Save the city for last and hug Conception Bay on Route 60 for a first taste of ocean scenery.
There are many places to linger but consider the village of Brigus. Quaint, historic, and already seeing a real estate boom as St. John's off-shore oil money seeps into the cottage market.
Don't miss the tunnel through the rock, or Debbie's scones with partridgeberry jam and fresh cream at the North Street Cafe.
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No one can visit Newfoundland without going to Dildo. I mean, can they? Ask about the name, check out the interpretive centre, and if you want to go to sea, Dildo Island Adventure Tours (709-582-2988) runs boat trips and can do boiled fish lunches on board. Watch for bald eagles.
The Trans-Canada Highway is a good road, so scoot up the lightly used blacktop towards wonderful Bonavista Peninsula.
Options abound. Trinity is as absorbing an area as you'll find, with sweeping views, gorgeous old churches, hidden coves, lush vegetation. It's also famous for its pageant, theatre festival, restaurants and shops.
Trinity Historical Walking Tours (709-464-3723) has the lowdown on almost five centuries.
Nearby Port Rexton boasts one of the best hotels in Newfoundland and an award-winner for its cuisine. Fishers Loft Inn is a cluster of recently-built but traditionally correct wooden houses. It's a high-class hostelry run by ex-Ontarians John and Peggy Fisher.
Kevin Spacey and Judi Dench stayed here while filming The Shipping News.
I recommend a single malt on the terrace overlooking Ship Cove before sampling locally sourced, ultra-fresh food. And say hi to Heike, the three-legged dog.
Check fishersloft.com or 1-877-464-3240.
There is superb hiking along the ocean, but for more activity stunning Terra Nova national park and a great golf course are only an hour away.
Warning: Newfoundland has more moose than anywhere else in North America. If you are travelling early or late in the day be very mindful of the giant ungulates.
North lies busy Bonavista and its cape, where John Cabot landed in 1497 and pronounced New-Founde-Lande. A magic place on a clear day. Bonavista also has one of Canada's largest wooden churches, the impressive Memorial United Church.
Scenic Musgravetown, close to Terra Nova, is a great lunch stop. At The Old Barracks, a former Sally Ann chapel, enjoy cod tongues and cheeks, moose stew, brewis and friendly service plus a good gift shop.
It was hot when I visited, driving a luxurious Buick Lucerne, and the ladies at the nearby Womens Institute found our air-cooled seats tickled their fancy.
Take the Trans-Canada back to St. John's but detour on the stark, barren Route 13 to Bay Bulls, Petty Harbour and Cape Spear, the eastern-most point in North America.
St. John's is jumping as that oil cash starts to impact. The vibes on a warm July night were a heady mix of amiable and optimistic.
Check out landmark Signal Hill, where Marconi received the first transatlantic radio signal in 1901, have a beer on George St., walk the harbour.
Hotel possibilities include the venerable Fairmont, formerly the Hotel Newfoundland. But we plump instead for dinner at Bianca's on Water St., where the food could grace any restaurant table in Canada, and B&B at the Bonne Esperance House, a few minutes' stroll away on Gower St.
Youthful St. John's native Regina Anthony runs a unique operation in three adjoining century-old homes, furnished Victorian style with a fine terrace overlooking an English garden. Contact bonneesperancehouse.ca or 1-888-726-3835.
As breakfast waiters serve coffee, fresh berries and waffles you'll want to linger longer than a week.