Ellicottville, located only 120 kilometres from the Niagara border, is one of the major ski destinations in the east, but it's also a place where non-skiers spend leisurely days away from the slopes any time of the year. (George Bailey/QMI Agency)

ELLICOTTVILLE, N.Y. -- When you mention Ellicottville, people in Western New York and southern Ontario often think about skiing.

Yes, it's true this quaint village, located only 120 kilometres from the Niagara border, is one of the major ski destinations in the east, but it's also a place where non-skiers spend leisurely days away from the slopes any time of the year.

About 25% of the homes in this village of 500, set in a valley near the foothills of the Allegheny Mountains are owned by Canadians and most are from the Niagara area.

Why are so many Canadians living and playing here?

Dave Stuart of St. Catharines, Ont., who's had a place in Ellicottville for the past 25 years, says that's easy to answer.

"It's not far away, and easy to get to. It's also a unique melting pot of various cultures.

"This is a real working town filled with lots of fascinating people who practise old-fashioned courtesy."

"It doesn't hurt that the Canadian dollar is also so strong now."

DOWNTOWN ELLICOTTVILLE

Some of the appeal is Ellicottville's compact pretty-as- a-postcard downtown. It's a walker's delight.

You'll find the area void of big- box retailing. There are plenty of historic brick and wooden buildings that have been re-born as unique, quirky, crayon-coloured stores and restaurants.

Keep your eyes open for Earth Arts, which feature local and regional arts and crafts. My grandchildren like it when I visit Kazoo 11; they have a full floor of timeless toys.

Watson's Chocolates is renowned for its Sponge Candy. It's the ultimate in chocolate luxury. New to the downtown is The Winery of Ellicottville where they produce their own wines on site.

If you prefer barley to grapes, check out the nearby Ellicottville Brewing Company and the fabulous craft beers.

At one end of the main street is a white, gothic-style St. John's Episcopal Church, built in 1837.

It's crying out to be photographed.

When it was time to eat, I headed to one of my favourite eating spots. The Gin Mill is an Ellicottville institution since 1976.

At this popular watering-hole, you can choose to eat your meal on an old-fashioned chrome stool or slide into a high-backed hardwood booth. You won't go wrong when you order the Ostrich Burger with carrot sticks for $7.99.

Quaff it down with one of their micro brews. Expect wall-to-wall people on weekends.

Venture off the main drag (Washington St.) and walk the tree-lined side streets. You'll see lovingly preserved and well-maintained 19th century homes. Look for several trees that sport "interesting faces."

WHERE TO STAY

If you want to stay over, there are a number of hotels and bed and breakfasts to choose from.

One B and B I like very much is the elegant country inn Ilex Inn B and B ( www.ilexinn.comor 800-496 6307) just on the outskirts of town.

Expect to pay $125 for two on the weekends.

On this visit I accepted an offer to stay at a luxury vacation home, with the thought of purchasing one.

Ellicott Villas ( www.ellicottvillas.comor 716-699-6600.) is a new development of 16 spacious vacation homes. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. These homes start at just under $100,000.

Hey, who knows, maybe I'll win the lottery and become one of those Canadians who call Ellicottville their seasonal home.

LOTS OF FESTIVALS

One of the other appeals about this village is the multitude of festivals throughout the year.

Brian Mac Fadden, general manager of the Chamber of Commerce ( www.ellicottvilleny.comor 800-349-9099), says,

"We have 11 festivals spread out throughout the year. One of our most popular is the upcoming Summer Music Festival from July 1 to 3.

There's a performance by the Rusted Roof on Friday evening, on Saturday evening the Buffalo Philharmonic and rounding out the weekend is a concert by KC & the Sunshine Band on Sunday evening."

The price of tickets ranges from $25 to $35.

When you can drag yourself from the village, take a short drive to nearby Allegheny State Park. Chances are along the way you'll pass some of the local Amish residents travelling the same roads in horse-drawn buggies.

IF YOU GO

From the Peace Bridge take Highway 190 South to Highway 90 West. Take the Springfield/ Orchard Park exit (exit 55) to Highway 219 South to Ellicottville. GPS users punch in 9 West Washington Street, Ellicottville.

George Bailey can be contacted at wonderful.life@sympatico.ca